(2) Meet Nancy Johnston, the Force Behind Khangai Noble Fabrics

Written by Jack Collins

Like many of us in the sartorial community, Nancy Johnston, the person behind House of Tengri, is deeply connected to style, even from a young age. In speaking with Nancy, I was able to discover more about the roads she’s traveled, and how she came to the noble Mongolian yak. 

Nancy Johnston, Founder & CEO, House of Tengri

From Sweatshops to Social Impact: A Path of Nancy's Textile Story

Nancy’s story in cloth production started before she was born. Her mother worked in a factory producing cloth in Vietnam, but due to conflict relocated to America as immigrant refugees. Growing up in Los Angeles, Nancy began her working life in a sweatshop factory in Downtown LA at the age of just four years old. With a less-than-perfect start to a journey in clothing from a very young age, you wouldn’t be wrong in assuming that Nancy wouldn’t want to pursue a career in textiles. But, as is so often the way, family formed part of Nancy’s intrigue for clothing. “I had a very sartorial grandfather who was impeccable in his style. He always dressed for breakfast in his suit, so that's my early exposure to style” 

Nancy’s main passion in life has always been about championing equity. So, her training isn’t actually in textiles, but in social work. Another of Nancy’s passions in life is exploring other cultures and traveling. She recounts, “I'm particularly drawn to mountains.” Essentially, that's how Nancy’s journey towards Noble Fibers and the Mongolian yak began; by realising that a lot of the luxury goods industry sources from remote mountainous regions. It’s interesting how mountains produce much of the world's luxury goods products. Nancy explained, “It's produced the medicines in our antibiotics, the fibres for luxury textiles and lots of other materials in luxury goods. Travelling to the mountains and living with nomadic families is made me realise what I wanted to do - create more equity for remote mountain communities supplying to the luxury industry.” 

A Cup of Milk Tea Without the Milk

Realising a lifelong dream, Nancy traveled to Mongolia in 2013, where she spent time with nomadic herfders. The first morning, Nancy was served suutei tsai, the traditional Mongolian milk tea. As is customary in any culture; your guests are served a beverage on arrival, and tea is renowned the world over. But there was a problem. Nancy recounted; “This young mother had no milk for my tea. That experience of shame, guilt, and embarrassment of there being no milk for my tea had a profound impact.” 

While we may take for granted the ability to run to the shop for a replacement carton of milk, the reality was very different for Nancy’s host; “All of her animals had died that winter from a change to their natural climate.” Climate change and overgrazing are the main issues. As Nancy explained, “Mongolia is experiencing twice the rate of global climate change at 2.4C change in temperatures. The global demand for cashmere has lead to the caring capacity of the land to be exceeded.” The particular issue with cashmere goats is their grazing habits. They’re quite aggressive as they graze to a point that they tear the roots of plants from the ground. This causes the land to degrade with no chance of regeneration, so all insect, plants and animals suffer. With prolonged winters, sadly millions of animals have starved and perish over the last several years. 

The tea tradition is an important part of nomadic Mongolian culture. Phto credit: https://www.kulturekween.com/tea-tradition-nomadic-mongolian-culture/

Mongolian yak, adpated to high altitude and extream cold, now face challenges from climate change. Photo credit: House of Tengri

A Simple Tea, A Life-Changing Mission

Nancy had seen the impact, and felt it as the young mother wasn’t able to provide her with any milk for a simple cup of tea. “She was also working for another family, which is quite unusual in Indigenous and nomadic cultures,” Nancy explained. “She was trying to save money for her daughter's education, and that for me was mind-blowing, that this country with just under three million people, half of which was nomadic at that time, was supplying into a multi-million dollar global cashmere industry yet have little security in their future as nomadic herders”.

Nancy came back to London, spent her life savings, and and intentionally set up her business in the UK, which has a rich textile heritage. “People ask me, ‘How did you design your company?’ The truth is I didn't design it, it was guided by working in partnership with heritage manufacturers and the nomadic herders who actually said we will bless you with the name of our God, ‘Tengri’.” Nancy continued to explain how in Mongolia and across Central Asia, the mountains and their yaks are sacred and yak noble fibres are as rare as vicuna and therefore can't be commoditized; “I'm honoring the material by giving it the highest value, and then working with the highest level of craftsmanship to honor the material.” 

Explore the Journey Behind the Club’ Cloth Launch at Princes Arcade, London

Having heard Nancy’s story, and the story of how the club cloth begins its journey in the Mongolian mountains, your appetite has likely been whetted for the cloth’s launch in London. But what to expect? You’ll be greeted at The Princes Arcade with a showcase of the cloth’s production projected across the arcade and Arterton showroom, where the centre of activity will be taking place. Having joined your sartorial friends to start the evening, you’ll be able to raise a glass of Savile Row Gin, created a mere stone’s throw from the evening’s activity. And when the scene is set, you’ll be able to explore the reality of The Sartorial Club’s latest collaboration in all of it’s splendor; cloth, cocktails, and great company. 

Arterton London, located at Princes Arcade