(1) Cashmere or Vicuña?
Written by Jack Collins
Cashmere. Soft, luxurious, and a knowing wink to anyone who cares about fine clothing, right? And Vicuña? Well, now we’re talking - The creme de la creme of noble fibers, a true Succession in luxury (yes, the pun is absolutely intended). But once you take a step back, and you start to see that luxury brands with products made of these fibers only hold the top spot because of recognition and prestige. So, is there something else out there that not only truly embodies true rarity and luxury, but also conscientiousness and the ethical craftsmanship we seek, crave and value?
I sat down with Nancy Johnston to uncover why discover why the answer is Mongolian Yak is the most extraordinary fiber you’ve never heard of.
Nancy Johnston, Founder & CEO, House of Tengri
The Noble Yak: A Fiber at Risk in Mongolia’s Changing Ecosystem
“These are ancient animals that have roamed this planet for over 10,000 years. They produce a remarkable Noble fiber that is as soft as cashmere, warmer than Merino, and surprisingly durable.”
Tended to by nomadic herders in the Khangai Mountains of Mongolia, the yaks in question are wild animals spread across Central Asia, the vast steppe taiga Tundra, a landscape that is becoming increasingly at risk of desertification and difficult to maintain due to global demand and over-grazing of cashmere goats. Nature is tipped out of balance.
Nomadic herders in Khangai Mountains, Mongolia. Photo credit: House of Tengri
Mongolian natural landscape. Photo credit: House of Tengri
Nancy then recounted; “I don't know if you've ever experienced a goat, but I went to the zoo when I was a kid and I had my name tag pinned on me, and this goat came up to me and just ate it right off my shirt.”
While this may seem like a fun light-hearted anecdote, and one you’ve either encountered firsthand or can relate to from watching those funny animal videos, it highlights a serious issue brought about by the growing demand for luxury fibers. Cashmere goats, unlike the yak, are not endemic to the traditional nomadic lifestyle of Mongolia., They also graze very aggressively. So much so that they tear up the roots of the pastures, leaving the grass land degraded.
This aggressive grazing disrupts the fragile ecosystem, where grass is not able to recover and regrow, starving other livestock and diminishing biodiversity. Every winter for the last several years, millions of animals perish as a direct consequence of this imbalance, unable to survive in an environment they can no longer inhabit
Mongolian yak, adpated to high altitude and extream cold. Photo credit: House of Tengri
The Challenges of Harvesting Yak Fibers for Luxury Textiles
This eye-opening fact speaks directly to the increased production of luxury fibers. Nancy illustrated how the herders now need to roam even further and more frequently in search of healthy grass for their animals. Traditionally, herders moved four times a year, following the seasons for fresh pastures. Now, they must relocate 10-15 times annually, travellingand wider to collect their harvest to find suitable grazing grounds.
As Nancy explained; “People compare noble fibers to industrial farms where sheep are confined to a farmer’s plot of land. These animals roam wild. The herders have to chase the yak on horse, lasso it rodeo- style, and then two herders hold it while another one carefully combs its underbelly.”
Yak fibers, Just like cashmere goats, come from the hair of the animals (wool, on the other hand only comes from sheep, and is harvested by shearing the sheep). More specifically, the yak fibers that are used in clothing production are from the down layer, grown closest to the body for warmth during the winter period. As Nancy said; “There are three types of fibres - down, outer coat and mid-layer fibres - and the mid and outer hair fibers of the yak can’t be spun into a yarn.
”This means that only the soft undercoat down, available just once a year when the yak’s shed their first winter coat, can be used. There is only one window of opportunity to collect the precious down fibers in the spring. The precious down fibers are collected in the spring by combing through the yak’s hair, a process certainly takes more time to harvest than shearing sheep.
Nancy then divulged how the dedication towards the yak harvest doesn’t end there. “Each animal only produces about 100 grams of spinnable down fibers each year.” Sartorialists like you and I will understand how the grams per square meter is an important metric when discussing cloth.; “When you consider the average cloth weight for a jacket is around 350 gsm, and you’ll need on about three meters of cloth to produce said jacket or coat, that’s the hair of 10.5 yaks needed to be harvested to make just one garment.”
Why is all of this important to Nancy? “So much of the production process is hidden for Cashmere and Vicuna.” Nowhere has this been most prevalent in recent memory as the expose in March 2024 that revealed luxury fashion house, Loro Piana, has allegedly been foregoing payments to their Peruvian suppliers. This is where any issues with Cashmere and Vicuna appear at a more socially conscious level.
Of course, not all luxury fiber production is bad. But there is no denying that negative practices are so often due to increased demand and can result in poorer quality garments that need to be replaced more frequently. Nancy explained how the slow, conscious harvest and production of Yak fibers can offer a solution. “I have a jacket that was made in the 1930s. That was the basis of for me if I'm gonna be producing cloth; I want that cloth and that jacket to last for another hundred years. And that's what makes it gives it it's a value as well that has longevity.” So, by looking at a truly rare fiber with a host of natural benefits, and then by ensuring the supply chain is ethically supported, it’s very possible to indulge in luxury in a conscious way.
The original tri-color yarns made with Mongolian yak. Left to right: brown, plum, rare silver
Blending Tradition with Sustainability: Crafting the Club Cloth
Pure yak is understandably expensive when looking at it in terms of upfront cost. To make this more accessible, the Club Cloth is being blended with sustainable wool to increase accessibility. “So much of the creation of the cloth comes back to nature and sustainability.” In fact, the cloth is being manufactured in Scotland’s oldest mill, a decision made not just for the advantage of heritage and expertise, but for geographical benefits, too.
Nancy explained; “Why do we have the best whiskeys in Scotland and the best gin in Yorkshire? It's because of the alkaline water and the ecosystem. I realized that when the yarn is actually, treated in the water here, it gives it the best handle that you can’t get anywhere else in the world.”
The finishing process is also a very technical challenge, deeply connected to water and the wider natural environment. but it too relates to the water and nature. Instead of using manufactured brushes to brush the cloth during the finishing stage, Nancy explained how natural teasels are used; “Teasels will not damage the cloth, and they’re grown in this country. By using nature alongside nature, you can produce something extremely special and truly representative of luxury.”
Black, plum and rare silver yarns, which are the foundations of TSC Club cloth design
As we begin on the road towards the launch of the Sartorial Club Cloth, I’d like to leave you with perhaps some of Nancy’s most exciting words that I’m sure will ignite your curiosity and whet your appetite to discover more about the possibilities this unique project will bring.
“For me, it's about no compromises when it comes to developing the yarn, the cloth, and the final product. The whole journey is a conscious decision, where these fibers are only handled in collaboration with a connection to craft, conscientiousness, and a deep care for the people behind the beautiful end product.”
This approach to luxury challenges the status quo, offering a sustainable alternative that doesn’t compromise on quality or integrity, and it’s this kind of mindful craftsmanship that should guide the future of sartorial excellence.
In the next episode, Nancy, the founder and CEO of House of Tengri, shares how her roots in mountaineering led her to the fabric trade.