Neapolitan Expedition (4) A Trouser Tale
By Jack Collins
When it comes to Napoli, some of the best sartorial finds are seldom in plain sight, but are in fact hidden treasures. With so many clothing stores to choose from on the garment-centric Via Chiaia, it can be easy to find fool’s gold in the search for the real thing. This makes discovering Marco Cerrato’s bespoke atelier doubly special, as not only a rare gem in the city of Naples, but also in the world of tailoring, with Marco’s sole focus being the art of the tailored trouser.
Crossing the threshold into a typically Italian alleyway off the main street can bring a feeling of trepidation; is this the right turning? Which of these many doorways is it? And how did they get this many scooters down here? All very reasonable questions to a newcomer, and all instantly resolved when you hear the warm greeting of Marco himself at the top of the stairwell, happy to see you, and framed by the golden light of his atelier entrance. The hidden treasure metaphor suddenly becomes more literal than intended.
Climbing the steps brings you to Marco’s front door, where the greeting continues - you’re not a customer, but a friend who he’s been looking forward to welcoming into his home. That’s certainly the feeling I experienced upon my first and subsequent meetings with Marco, which makes for a wonderfully contemporary outlook from a bespoke maker. A mindset that is apparent throughout the studio.
Unlike many other bespoke ateliers you’re likely to visit, Marco has designed his space with great care so that you purposefully walk through the workshop on your way to the consultation and fitting room. Nothing is tucked away in a corner or hidden on a different floor, he wants you to see the craftspeople at work. If you’ve followed the treasure map this far, this element is a real treat for sartorialists. As motor enthusiasts enjoy seeing the inner workings of an exquisite vehicle, the ability to explore the engine of a bespoke house in action is particularly exciting. Knowing where, how, and (just as important) who is going to be crafting your next commission amps up the inspiration as you enter the consultation room.
The library of cloth spanning an entire wall sits on beautifully crafted shelves made in Florence (the link for fellow Pitti pilgrims is sure to raise a smile, as it did for me). While Marco is happy to discuss a pair of trousers in any cloth you wish, he’s a particular fan of wool merchants that produce cloth with a vintage feel. An emphasis on more traditional manufacture allows Marco to create trousers that drape beautifully and hold a crease well, something more difficult to achieve with softer fibres such as cashmere. He’s also seen an increased demand for Draper’s Ascot this year, creating over twenty pairs in the summer cloth. This fits in line beautifully with Marco’s recommendation for your first pair of bespoke trousers: a high-twist wool (such as Fresco or Crispaire) in medium grey. Infinitely versatile, classic, yet sharp - arguably the perfect pair of trousers for the 21st Century.
No matter which cloth you choose, it’s the make that you come to Marco for. As we’ve previously explored, there’s so much attention given to jackets when discussing tailored garments. But trousers should be seen as an opportunity for both importance and beauty, as when you remove a jacket from an outfit, you still have the blueprint for elegance if your shirt and trousers are well thought through. Reverse that thinking and take the trousers away from an outfit, and no one’s going to be paying all that much attention to your jacket’s Spalla Camicia shoulders anymore!
So how can a pair of trousers stand (and indeed shine) on their own merit? The backbone is fit, possibly the biggest draw for any bespoke commission. Unlike traditional bespoke settings, Marco employs a method that allows your pattern to focus on achieving the perfect fit for your body first and foremost, with the details coming later. This eliminates the need to cut and change paper patterns time and again, and means you can request several different trouser styles, in different cloths, with varying levels of detail. The benefit of working in this way is that you’ll typically require fewer fittings with each pair. It’s certainly fun to travel to Napoli, or catch Marco on one of his frequent trips to London, Paris, or New York, but the ability to nail the perfect fit quickly and efficiently with each pair of trousers certainly increases their value.
The emphasis we put on a jacket largely comes from the amount of details they can bear. Marco likes to challenge this perception by applying the same level of attention to his trousers. We all know that pleats can make a trouser more comfortable, but by mastering the art of bespoke trousers Marco is able to make pleats beautiful in the same way that the pressing of a jacket’s chest informs the shape of the garment. Look where the pleats meet the waistband and you’ll see hand-sewn tacks, and by following these to the pocket you’ll discover even more handwork in the pick stitching running the length of the seam. A jacket’s lapel bears this detail, but once you remove it in the heat of the day, you lose its impact. By wearing handwork like this on your trousers, you can admire it all day.
Marco Cerrato is by far one of the most exciting sartorial gems to discover in Naples. We all likely think of several famous merchants of style when Napoli comes to mind, but these other names are known for outfitting a whole wardrobe with a particular look. By focusing on creating exquisite trousers that fit you and your style, Marco is able to provide you with the foundation of a surprisingly versatile and relevant wardrobe.