From Kingdom of Shoemaking to a Fading Legacy
The origins of Taiwanese leather shoes are similar to the history of most footwear. They originated from the convenience of farming, hunting, fishing and hunting, and later became a status symbol of the upper class.
For example, in order to reduce the wariness of deer, Taiwan's aboriginal hunters would wear leather shoes to absorb the noise of walking in the grass, making it easier to approach the animals. In the Qing Dynasty, "leather" and "satin" shoes were very popular among the officials and gentry. Once such trend is formed, the wealthy businessmen began to look for something more exotic and unique, and the abundant island is full of animals (such as deer) in the mountains and forests. In addition to deer skins, all kinds of animal furs also became the primary target of the officials and gentry.
台灣皮鞋的起源與大多數的鞋類歷史相似，起於農作、狩獵、漁獵等便利而生，後來成為上層社會的身份象徵。例如，台灣的原住民獵人們為了要降低鹿隻的戒心，會腳著皮鞋吸收步行於草地間的雜音，方便接近動物。在清代「皮革」和「綢緞」的鞋款相當受官紳階級喜愛。得知消息的富商巨賈們，開始打起了山林間的動物的主意，除了鹿皮之外，各式的動物毛皮也成為官紳階級覬覦的首要目標。
Image credit: https://zjnews.zjol.com.cn/zjnews/wznews/202207/t20220718_24533675.shtml
A Distinct Cultural Connotation of Leather shoes
During the Japanese colonial period, leather shoes were considered "fashionable" and "modern". Businessmen and intellectuals have chosen to join the ranks of "Taiwan Gentlemen", and wearing suits has become a symbol of western civilization. Because leather shoes and suits are expensive, only the upper class could afford them. Ordinary people may wear leather shoes for the first time when they get married. For those who cannot afford such purchase, they can only borrow ill-fitting leather shoes for the big day.
日治時期，皮鞋被視為「流行」與「現代化」。商人、知識份子紛紛選擇加入「台灣紳章」的行列，身著西裝也成為文明與進步的象徵。由於皮鞋與西裝價格昂貴，只有上流社會才有機會穿，一般平民百姓可能在結婚時才第一次穿上皮鞋，窮苦的人只能在婚禮當天借不合腳的皮鞋穿。
With such background, it is not hard to understand why “leather shoes” had special connotation in the Taiwanese society. It was a symbol of success for those who left their hometown to work in the big cities. When they are able to wear a pair of good leather shoes and return home to visit, it is a significant demonstration to the family that they have made a successful career and lived a good life.
過去，皮鞋在台灣有特殊意義，對出外工作的遊子來說是成功的象徵。當有能力穿一雙好的皮鞋返鄉，就是在告訴家人，自己事業有成並且過得很好。
The Rise & Falls
Shoemaking in Taiwan follows a traditional apprenticeship system. In most cases, the master does not explain how to make shoes in details to his apprentices. Instead, the apprentices have to learn through observation. Hence, the learning process is quite difficult and strict, but common belief is that a strict master produces a good apprentice with solid skills after graduation. It is no secret that shoemaking requires long hours of work, and a lot of effort is required in the craft to figure out the techniques required for shoemaking.
During the economic reform in the 1960s, Taiwan’s industries flourished, and the shoemaking industry sprouted accordingly. In the early days, shoemakers fled from China followed the example of shoe shops and factories with the Japanese system during the colonial period. They were run as a store-factory unit, and mostly relied on Goodyear construction custom-made shoes as their source of business. Given the procedure, only 1-2 pairs of shoes were produced in a day. Fast forward to 1980, the adoption of shoemaking machines, the expansion of other shoe making styles beyond Goodyear construction and casual categories, all contributed the most prosperous period for Taiwan's shoemaking industry. Given this successful transition, Taiwan was known as world's second largest footwear exporter in the 80s.
台灣製鞋是採傳統的師徒制，通常師傅不會跟學徒講解如何做鞋，而是要透過觀察，學習過程非常艱苦跟嚴格，但嚴師出高徒，學成以後技術上也特別扎實。製鞋工時長，技術需要投注很多的心力，才能琢磨出製鞋所需要的手感。
60年代經濟改革，民生工業蓬勃發展，台灣製鞋工業萌芽。早期是由來自中國的製鞋師傅，沿襲日本撤離台灣後的鞋店與鞋廠，以店廠合一的方式經營，並且多以固特異的訂製鞋為生意來源，一天僅能生產1-2雙皮鞋。80年代是台灣製鞋產業最興盛的時期，從製鞋機器的引進得以大量生產，到投入運動休閒鞋類，這些產業變遷促使台灣成為全球第二大鞋類出口國。
Imag Credit: https://www.cw.com.tw/article/5123844
The Impact of Joining World Trade Organization (WTO)
With the rapid changes in the economic environment between 80s and the 2000s, the cost of shoe making has continued to rise. With the opening up of trade areas in China and Southeast Asia, Taiwan has been unable to compete with regions with cheaper labor. Many companies have decided to move labor-intensive production lines overseas. After Taiwan joined the WTO, it was also affected by the disappearance of the protective tariff policy, leading to the rapid decline of Taiwan's shoe industry.
20幾年來隨著經濟環境快速變遷，製鞋的成本不斷升高，加上中國、東南亞貿易地區開放，台灣無法與較廉價的勞工地區競爭。許多業者決定將需要大量勞動力的生產線轉移至海外。在台灣加入WTO之後，也因關稅的保護政策消失而受到衝擊，導致台灣鞋業走向沒落。
As the shoemaking industry shrinks, many masters of handmade shoemaking have turned to other industries to make a living, Today, there are only a few masters who are capable of make leather outsoles in Taiwan. The pursuit of quick success also has impact on the young generation who are less willing to learn such skill at slow pace, which further escalate the decline.
The lack of successors, the time-consuming production of handmade leather shoes, low output, and unstable income have all become obstacles to the advancement of Taiwan's handmade shoemaking. However, in recent years, some young generation of handmade shoe enthusiasts have begun to go abroad to learn experience and returned Taiwan to open their own studios. It certainly brings hope to revive the declining shoemaking industry in the future.
隨著皮鞋產業的萎縮，許多掌握手工製鞋的師傅轉而投身其他產業，在台灣繼續製作皮革大底的師傅，現今更是碩果僅存。現在的社會講求速成，年輕人難以忍受這樣慢熬一門功，因此已少有人想重拾這一行業。後繼無人，加上手工皮鞋的製作耗時、產量低、收入不穩，都成為台灣手工製鞋前進的阻礙。好消息是，近年來也開始有一些年輕的手工鞋愛好者隻身前往國外取經並陸續返回國內開設工作室。希望可以為台灣日漸凋零的製鞋業帶來一些新氣象。
Craftsmanship Reborn with New Generation
In this episode, we talk about the rise and fall of Taiwan's shoemaking industry and the impact on Taiwan after joining the World Trade Organization (WTO). In the next chapter, we will dive in further on WTO’s broader scope of influence on Taiwanese tobacco and whiskey. Coincidentally, it is much connected to the venue where Suit Walk is held in 2024: Songshan Cultural and Creative Park, which was Songshan Tobacco Factory in the past. It is worth to mention that tobacco and alcohol sales were centrally regulated by the Japanese (during the colonial period) and Taiwanese governments until 1999.
Next, let’s talk about the Taiwanese tobacco industry, which has gradually been forgotten by the world but is still full of charm, and Taiwanese whiskey, which has become internationally famous in recent years.
這個章節我們聊了台灣的製鞋產業興衰跟加入世界貿易組織後對台灣造成的影響。下篇文章我們要講的內容也都在其影響範圍內：菸草與威士忌。這也剛好 2024 Suit Walk舉辦場地- 松山文創園區有關; 其前身，也就是過去的松山菸草工廠。對於海外的讀者，值得一提的是從日治時代到近年的 1999，菸草和酒精飲品在台灣是由政府公家管制銷售的。接下來，一起聊聊已經逐漸被世人遺忘但依舊充滿魅力的煙草產業，以及近年來知名國際的台灣威士忌。