Written by Adam Groh

Stepping into Industry City

As I stepped out into Brooklyn for the first time in the heart of Industry City my head looked up and around; I noticed the exposed iron and old loading docks from an era gone by, old history saturating the building. From the boom of 1900s New York to the conversion to wartime shipyards, and back again into manufacturing, Industry City truly holds onto its character by fostering an environment for many small artisans. Two of these artisanal shops being Francis Waplinger and Rue Du Paradis, both of which were the destinations for the Sartorial Club field trip. While on this field trip here we would then dive into the art of crafting both bespoke shoes and lingerie.

Embracing a Journey to the Club’s ethos

I joined the club a little less than a year ago, coming from the Midwest of the United States with a background in retail, with a focus on made-to-measure. Getting to learn from craftspeople is one of the big reasons to become part of the club. I felt like this trip truly encompassed the Discover part of the defining words to the club: Network, Discover, Co-Create. I felt called to join not only for these experiences, but the networking made accessible through the club.

The short time I have been in the club has made me want to stay to co-create and discover what adventures the club brings to its members to come. The Sartorial Club has opened a whole new world to this country kid from the Midwest of the United States to find and fall in love with.

An Unexpected Discovery

As we became full of delicious baked goods and coffee from Tadaima bakery, we began our dive into the worlds of shoes and lingerie!

Though I cannot say I ever thought to walk into a bespoke lingerie maker, I am glad the club organized the venture. Though some of us felt bashful in the lingerie studio (maybe myself to an extent) we were welcomed and made at home from the beginning. Starting with a warm welcome and a quick presentation on Leaver’s Lace, hailing from Calais, France, and made with a very unique machine that takes years to learn and a lifetime to master; this is the heart of what makes Rue Du Paradis special!

While at Rue Du Paradis we were able to work together to build and create a bralette. The owner of Rue Du Paradis, Fanny, laid out all the patterns beforehand and taught us how the tools are to be used. I was assigned to the lining within the bralette cup for cutting out along the template, others in the group had the privilege to cut the Calais Leavers lace, while others cut the straps to secure it all; straps are made in Japan, known to be the best in elastics.

A Hands-On Lesson

Who would think the first time on a sewing machine for myself would be making a bralette cup? With Fanny guiding the whole group through each and every step of her process while showing us what makes each material special. From the lace that is woven on looms old and worn with memory of many different unique patterns that take days to design and work into the machines. Watching the passion behind Fanny as she talked about her attention to detail and care for her clients really makes one think how lucky one must be to work with her. A true lover of the craft she keeps alive for more people to experience and discover for themselves.

The Art of Bespoke Shoemaking with Francis Waplinger

Moving just across the hall, after a brief excursion to the checkerboarded black hole elevator, our group entered Francis Waplinger’s bespoke shoemaking. Stepping into a leather filled space, hand tools at the ready, and customer lasts stacked neatly on shelves ready for their next pair.

Talking directly to someone so invested in keeping their craft strong is a privilege considering over eighty hours must go into a single pair of shoes. And with his waitlist well over a year we consider ourselves to be lucky just to take some of his time to learn about what goes into a handmade pair of shoes.

Beginning with the training Francis had to undergo just to learn shoemaking, sparked by a technical course on shoes from a university he attended, it was off to the races from there. Pursuing the few master bespoke shoemakers in the United States first before pulling up and flying to Italy to learn from a Florentine maker Angelo Imperatrice. Then Roberto Ugolini before finishing again stateside with Marcell Mrsan in Pennsylvania. Francis’s roundabout way of coming to Brooklyn has resulted in his unique style of shoe, with the cut and curve of Italian grace. While construction takes some cues from American bootmakers as seen in his soles, pegging the waist of the shoe instead of a metal shank to avoid unnecessary stiffness.

The Story in Every Hide

Continuing further into what makes Francis’s work special is his dedication to finding American leather that can give some flair to his work. Including wild boar, alligator, and crocodile, imbuing texture, durability, and ethos into his works of art. What becomes especially unique is the scarring that each individual animal gains as they age, instead of perfect unmarred leather. We get to see a story of the animal’s life on display unfolding across their hide before it becomes part of someone’s beloved footwear. Keeping this story and a craft alive within the walls of the shoemaking shop.

A Fitting Farewell

The evening ends neatly at the Grand Brassiere in Grand Central Station, the historical hub of transportation for travelers to start or end their journeys across the continent. Making it a fitting end for the Sartorial Club’s adventure through New York City. With the restaurant being full of warmth, and new friends around the table we all sat down to break bread, share wine, and laugh with one another. All to have one final goodbye before flying back over the world. Personally, I think this trip was a success, networking happened, discoveries were had, and the trip resulted in great collaborative work.

(3) Hidden Gems in Brooklyn