Written by Janne Renvall

After the Renaissance charm of Firenze and the elegance of Pitti, TSC heads south.

The three-hour train ride takes us to Napoli, the vibrant capital of Campania guarded by the majestic Mount Vesuvius. This UNESCO World Heritage Site metropolis is full of historical buildings, monuments, classical ruins and medieval castles. The most prominent forms of architecture visible in present-day Napoli are the Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque styles. We are thrilled to get to know the many faces of this one of the most ancient cities in Europe from its grand piazzas, royal palaces, castles and hundreds of churches to the rough beauty of the narrow alleys in Quartieri Spagnoli.

Another good reason to visit the region is the legendary Amalfi Coast, also a World Heritage Site. Part of the fun is of course the local cuisine. Napoli and the region of Campania are perhaps best known for pizza, but also Pasta of Gragnano, seafood dishes, different cheeses like Mozzarella di bufala, different fruits like lemon and vegetables like San Marzano tomato.

Panoramic view of Napoli (photo credit Instagram @constantinamoi)

Sartoria Napoletana

But right now, we are not here for food. We came to learn about the Sartoria Napoletana. Napoli, once known as the city of thousands of tailors, still has a big concentration of artisans manufacturing menswear from tailoring, trousers, shirts, leather garments, ties, shoes and gloves. Over the past century, the master tailors of Naples have become among the most renowned in the world. We are standing in the center of the wealthy and comfortable Chiaia neighborhood in Via Giuseppe Fiorelli. The first stop of this field trip takes us to the famed Sartoria Ciardi.

Louis (left) and Freda (right) walk along Via Chiaia

Meet Enzo and Roberto Ciardi

We climb the broad stairway to the first floor. The brothers Enzo and Roberto welcome us with big smiles on their faces. They are second-generation master tailors, now in their late 50s, running the atelier originally opened by their father Renato Ciardi in 1954. In their late teens, the brothers started as apprentices to learn the occupation in the old-fashioned way, very slowly and little by little, through helping their father, made their career to follow in his footsteps. Earlier in the previous episode, when writing about the Black Tie Dinner, I referred to TSC as a family. While visiting Napoli with its tailors, you realize that running a tailor shop is usually a family affair. Renato Ciardi’s knowledge was the precious heritage that he passed down to his sons Enzo and Roberto.

Enzo (left) and Roberto (right) of Sartoria Ciardi welcome the Club at the sartoria entrance

Sartoria Ciardi is a place where you can feel the atmosphere of the tailors of the past. The atelier consists of two parts, the salon and the laboratorio. The vintage salon or showroom is located on the first floor. It is all wood, leather, fabric, fine art and steeped in history. We can detect various awards and certificates of recognition on the walls and some old working tools such as irons and scissors as an epitome of skilled old-style work still executed by the talented tailors. The shelves and tables are filled with piles of various cloths and sample books from renowned mills. This is where the clients are met and measured. There are armchairs and chairs to sit down, chat and discuss the commissions, choices of fabric and details.

A corner from one of the two showrooms, with a family portrait of Enzo and Roberto’s mother

Sartoria Ciardi team portraits with the late Renato Ciardi (1st photo, third from the right; 2nd photo, in the middle), who founded the house

The heart of the sartoria

We proceed to the laboratorio or workshop, some steps beneath the salon. The room is the total contrast to the one upstairs. It is plain and functional, and yet cozy. Here the small team of employees work together with Enzo and Roberto under a bright overhead lighting behind their own tables. This is where the magic aka the hard work happens: by using tailor’s chalk, the desired parts of the garment being worked on are drawn directly on the fabric without a separate pattern, followed by careful cutting, choosing the right canvas, different stages of stitching all by hand and heavy ironwork to achieve the wished shape. The garments are prepared for fittings to happen either in the salon or in one of the bespoke trunkshows abroad. After the first fittings they will be taken back to the workshop to be prepared for the second fitting or finalized, sewn on for each customer to perfectly follow the shapes of body like a second skin.

An experienced seamstress in the process of finishing a buttonhole on the lapel

The canvas structure of Sartoria Ciardi jacket

Ciardi’s Neapolitan jacket

From Enzo and Roberto, we learn about tailoring a Neapolitan style bespoke jacket. The discussion starts from the cut and the use of less padding and a lighter canvas to achieve softness and drape. We talk about Spalla camicia, a traditional Neapolitan tailoring structure for the top of the sleeve and shoulder. It could be done with or without ripples. The curved Barchetta pocket is also mentioned. In my opinion the Neapolitan jackets seem to be shorter compared with the English ones. Also, the opening below the waist button seems to be cut more open and rounded in Napoli. Of course, each Sartoria has a specific style. At Ciardi the shoulders are smooth, but still strong and the top of sleeves without ripples. The neck and the back hug the body nicely. The bodices have drape, and the waists are marked but not tight. The length covers the seat and below the waist button they are not too open. The overall feeling of their jackets seems to be refined, well-balanced and a bit more conservative than in some modern Neapolitan ateliers.

Enzo explains how the spalla camicia is made and why he prefers clean sleeve head

On the working table, Ciardi team invites TSC members to feel the garment

The first very fruitful visit of the TSC Field Trip is about to end at Sartoria Ciardi. It is time to move on to meet another Neapolitan tailor in this cradle of tailoring art.

Janne (left), Voke (middle) and David (right) quietly observe the handworks at Ciardi’s workshop

No jacket required

As we head through Via Chiaia, Marco Cerrato and his family of Cerrato Napoli, a tailor specialized in bespoke trousers are waiting for us. Marco also started his career as a teenager when he started working together with his father Ciro and mother Titina in their workshop that was opened 1974. He comes from a family of tailors of which the first traces date back to the end of the 19th century when the great-grandfather of Marco’s mother started working as a waistcoat maker. Nowadays, Marco works together with his wife Mena as well his mother, father and brother in the atelier.

Marco Cerrato explains the tradition and story of his family

Marco’s mother, Titina, who comes from a tailor family and started her tailoring career in the early teens

With his wife Mena, Marco has recently opened their new Atelier-Workshop, where the layout is completely different to Sartoria Ciardi. We first enter a small tasteful hall, where we are met with a pair of checked fishtail back trousers on a mannequin as a centerpiece to make clear what the business is about there. After that we walk into the workshop with the family and other team members working side by side. Marco designed the space so that to make it to the salon we must make our way through the workshop. Simultaneously, while greeting the people at their work, we can both witness the work being done on the premises and appreciate the skillful busy hands.

Marco demonstrates for Janne at the working table

“The inside of the trousers should be just as beautiful as the outside”, said Marco.

The salon, in deep green and mahogany, gives a modern and at the same time classic impression. Along one wall there are stately shelves filled with a good selection of fabrics. The room is guarded by a striking contemporary chandelier to light the fittings to take place before a large, beautiful gold-framed mirror. To our great surprise, Marco and his family prepare a table full of traditional Neapolitan sweets, generously showcasing their hospitality for the Club.

A generous spread of “Fiocco di neve” (the snowflake), sfogliatelle, baba rum, among others to welcome TSC’s visit

The cut of the Cerrato trousers is comfortable. Besides the good fit, Marco emphasizes the importance of choosing the appropriate type of fabric and the attention to the high quality of work. He is known to work according to the canons of the tradition of Neapolitan trousers with freehand cutting and many handmade artisanal procedures. Marco does not want to exaggerate with details or make trousers too complicated. For him, good trousers are simple, well-proportioned, harmonious and chic. When presenting his trousers to us, Marco quite willingly shows the careful work executed to finish the inside, the button fly closure and the use of the kissing box pleats instead of two reverse or forward pleats. It seems that some details still make a difference to him.

A pair of bespoke solaro trouser at the first fitting session

For us appreciating craftsmanship, having the possibility to visit these two legendary Neapolitan ateliers was an incredible experience. At both places the atmosphere was relaxed and caring, and the reception was generous and welcoming. Getting to meet Enzo, Roberto and Marco with their teams and feel and see behind the scenes became a once in a lifetime moment. It deepened our admiration towards the traditional sartorial work, but also made us hungrier to learn more.

Roberto (left), Janne (middle), and Enzo (right) at Sartoria Ciardi’s main showroom

Marco (left) shares the exciting new find with Isabela (right): Japanese denim with Italy’s tri-color selvage

In the next and final episode of this series, tailoring will take a backseat. David will guide us along the winding roads of the Amalfi Coast, revealing breathtaking views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and experience "La Dolce Vita."

(5) City of Tailors