Integration and Co-Prosperity: The Dress Code of Taiwan
During the Japanese colonial period, the Japanese brought traditional kimonos. Western clothes also came to Taiwan with the Westernization policy and commercial circulation. Coupled with the people who originally wore "Taiwanese clothes" (Qing Dynasty clothing), this cultural blend produced new products. This is the beginning of Taiwan's clothing becoming more diverse and complex.
日治時期,日本人帶來了傳統的和服,洋服也隨著西化政策與商業流通來到台灣,再加上原本穿著「台灣服」(清制服裝)的民眾,如此的文化交融產生出新的風貌,這是台灣服裝走向多元揉雜的開始。
Image Credit: Digitalarchives.tw
The “Mix & Match” among Chinese, Japanese, and Western Styles
In the early days of the Japanese occupation, young women wore traditional cardigans (a type of Qing Dynasty clothing with wide sleeves and flashy piping) paired with Western-style skirts or Japanese hakama; men wore long robes, mandarins, western hats, or shirts with hats and clogs. At that time, the streets of Taiwan were a platform for Taiwanese-Japanese and Taiwanese-Western fusion. During the mid-to-late Japanese colonial period of the 1920s and 1940s, "modern Westernized" clothing such as complete sets of three-piece suits and Western-style clothes became popular, and leather shoes also followed. The westernization of clothing became a common type of footwear; at the same time, Shanghai's new cheongsam became popular in Japan and Taiwan through the displays of celebrities and artists, becoming an alternative clothing option for women at that time in addition to western clothes. In the late 1950s, the textile industry sprouted and export sales boomed to stimulate the economy. One-piece dresses became the new favorite of fashion. Fashion concepts gradually took shape. Ready-to-wear clothing gradually replaced home tailoring.
日治初期,年輕女性以大襟衫(清制服裝的一種,有著寬袖和浮華的緄邊)搭配西式筒裙或日式袴;男性穿長袍馬褂戴西帽,或穿襯衫配斗笠、木屐,當時的台灣街頭儼然就是台日混搭及台洋混搭的伸展台;日治中後期的1920-40年代,成套的三件式西裝、洋服等「摩登西化」的衣飾流行起來,皮鞋也隨著服裝的西化成為常見的鞋履種類;同時,上海的新式旗袍透過明星與藝旦的展示風靡日台,成為當時女性除了洋服以外的衣著選擇。50年代後期,紡織工業萌芽、外銷火熱帶動經濟,連身洋裝成為時尚新寵兒,時裝觀念逐漸成形,衣飾也由成衣逐漸取代家庭洋裁。
Image Credit: Style Gazette Taiwan
Hot & Humid, No Problem
Taiwan's climate is already humid and hot. In recent years, the extreme climate has exacerbated this situation. This is really not good news for those who love dressing up. However, the perseverance of Taiwanese people is also reflected in the "love of beauty". No matter how hot the weather is or how heavy the rain is, there will still be gentlemen wearing shirts and ties wiping sweat while covering the sun, girls wearing Lolita skirts being careful not to let their clothes get wet, and women wearing cheongsam carefully lifting their skirts to avoid stepping on them.
台灣氣候本就潮濕炎熱,近幾年極端氣候更加劇這種狀況,對愛好打扮者來說實在不是甚麼好消息,不過台灣人堅忍不拔的精神也體現在「愛美」這件事上。天氣再熱、雨下再大,還是會有穿襯衫打領帶的紳士們一邊擦汗一邊遮太陽、穿著Lolita裙子的女生小心翼翼地不讓衣服被淋到、旗袍女子們謹慎地提起裙襬以免踩濕。
Imag Credit: @troutfresh
Lack of Imagination or Fusion of all Styles?
If one asks “what kind of clothing silhouettes come to mind when you think of Taiwan”? It seems that unlike Japanese, Korean and other styles, in which a clear image emerges immediately. However, this does not mean that Taiwanese lacks imagination in the field of clothing. On the contrary, we believe that the answer to "Taiwan's representative clothing" is - "all-inclusive": Japanese elegance, Korean simplicity, European and American casual trends, etc., which can be seen on the streets of Taiwan on a regular basis. It is common for people wearing trendy clothes and people wearing vintage clothes to pass each other on the street. Such scene tells a clear story: No matter how niche the style is, it has its own community, with like-minded people exploring the fun of dressing together.
有人說,若要問一想到台灣會想到怎樣的服裝輪廓?似乎不像日系、韓系等風格一樣,立刻有清晰的形象浮現。然而,這絕不代表台灣在穿搭領域是貧脊而缺乏想像的。恰恰相反,我們認為,「台灣的代表衣著」的回答是──「包羅萬象」。日本的優雅氣質、韓國的簡約俐落、歐美的休閒潮流等,通通都是能在台灣街頭看見的風格,穿著潮服的人與穿著古著的人在街上錯身而過是稀鬆平常的事;再怎麼小眾的風格都有自己的社群,有志同道合者一起挖掘穿搭的樂趣。
Image Credit: @_doris_06 _
Some people criticize Taiwanese people for being too "self-absorbed" when it comes to clothing principles, unlike Japan, Singapore and other countries which pay attention to clothing and appearance. Others say that such casualness also reflects that Taiwanese people are not bound by rules and regulations and face the challenges faced by others. There is simply less pressure. On the other hand, some also believe that the gentry style during the Japanese colonial period faded due to the increasing demand of industrial labor hence activated the gradual shift to functional orientation. Later, when the younger generations' living standards and their economic capabilities improved, they started looking back and reflected on the choices. By doing so, they fell in love with the clothes of their grandparents' generation. Some would argue that Taiwan may still be looking for a signature style. It is difficult to find a template in the "chaos" because everything has not yet been formed.
Every argument has merit and Taiwanese believes respecting each other and never hesitate to praise each other when they see stunning outfits, Taiwan's eclectic cultural heritage is where all styles can live and thrive.
有人批評台灣人在服裝的 TPO 上太過「做自己」,不像日本、新加坡等地注意服裝儀容,另派聲音則說,這樣隨興恣意也反映出台灣人不受條條框框的綑綁、面對的壓力較小;也有人認為,日治時期的仕紳風格,是因應後來台灣產業的勞力密集、服裝也隨之逐漸轉為機能取向,後代生活水準提升了、經濟能力有了,才回頭審視並愛上祖父母輩的衣服;有人則指出,台灣或許還在尋找具有標誌性的風格,在「渾沌」之中本來就難以找出一種模板,因為一切尚未成形。
每種論點都有道理,正如街上繽紛的各人各色一般,相互尊重、並在看到驚豔的穿搭時不吝於給讚美,台灣兼容並蓄的文化底蘊正是各種風格都能在這裡安身立命的關鍵。