(4) The Fabric Merchant in Bologna
By Simon Brockbank
The eight field trip took us to Bologna to visit the infamous Drapers company. Drapers literally means a person who sells fabric intended for clothing, which is very fitting since for the fabric merchant that transcended time. Founded in 1956, Drapers is well known for its wide variety of fabrics, unquestionable quality and affection for bespoke garments. While Vitale Barbaris Canonico acquired Drapers in 2014, it focuses on providing clients with certain demands of quantity( e.g. suitsupply or proprecloth), while Drapers works on cuts length services for bespoke and MTM tailors.
Pitti Uomo is the perfect place to meet artisans, brand owners and enthusiasts, but it remains a trade show. Most of the actual trading relating to menswear takes place outside Florence. My previous Italian field trip with the club took us to Como, more than 3 hours away from Florence. This time, we were lucky enough to have a field trip destination only 30 minutes away from Florence : Bologna. After a quick train commute, the sartorial club arrived in Bologna, made it to the Drapers premises and was welcomed by Luca Malatini, the europe sale manager. Most of us had previously met Luca at the masquerade ball and had a quick glance at the fabrics he brought there.
The facilities are divided into 2 floors. The ground floor is where the fabric is rolled, cut and shipped. In order to be stored and preserved before it is cut, fabric is rolled into bolts of between 60 and 100 meters long. Rolling the fabric prevents getting creases that would form if it was stored for a long time. Such creases would need to be removed prior to cutting or working with the fabric, at the risk of damaging it. Fabric used to be rolled by hand, which was a lengthy and difficult process, since fabric rolls of heavy fabric can weigh over 25kg once completed.
At Drapers, there is a very impressive machine that rolls the fabric perfectly and automatically, saving that labor that used to be a full time job. It also prepares the fabric for cutting, making sure it has consistent size. The cutting process is also impressive, especially the ending that is actually a very controlled ripping process. The second floor is where the offices and showroom are located.
More than the eye can see
The showroom is easily the most impressive room in the building. It has that warm, welcoming atmosphere, while also featuring furniture and a massive well lit table to enjoy the fabrics. Luca quickly proceeded to show us a few fabrics from the 21 micron collection. As mentioned before, that particular fiber comes from South America : Argentina and Uruguay. Is it woven into numerous different fabrics that profit from its strength and durability.
Luca was wearing a beautiful 21 micron flannel chalk stripe suit, which is quite different from what you would expect. Flannel typically has a lovely soft texture, which also makes it somewhat delicate and prone to breaking down with friction over time. The 21 micron flannel has that desirable texture, but with slightly rougher finish. The result is impressive : the softness of the flannel extra durability.
Among the numerous fabric options, a few more attracted my attention : Beausoleil, Ascot, and Montecarlo. Beausoleil is actually Solaro under a different name, since it has been trademarked since 1931 by Smith Wollens. Solaro was invented in 1907 in an attempt to make a material reflecting light and make it suitable for tropical climates. While that experiment failed, the typically herringbone woven fabric remains an intricate one with a unique look. The traditional fabric features a greenish color that reflects orange and red tones, which makes it unmistakable and charming. Drapers offers it in a variety of colors.
Ascot is wool woven into a basketweave pattern to allow air to circulate, which makes it perfect for summer garments. It is also quite resistant since it features the 21 micron fiber. Montecarlo does as well, but in a fashion similar to hopsack. Montecarlo is Luca’s favorite bunch, where his beloved 21 micron hopsack fabric resides . Since he travels a lot, its crease resistance and durability are put to the test. At 280g, it can be used for summer tailoring as well as other seasons with the addition of the lining. As the bunch suggests, those colorful fabrics fair particularly well in warmer climates. That bunch also features 100% wool seersucker, which offers a similar finish while completely outperforming cotton seersucker.
Being a Canadian often living in the cold, I can only have a soft spot for overcoats. Drapers has several offerings for that particular need. One of them is the archive overcoat fabric collection. Even though modern fabrics are very different from those made a few decades ago, that collection attempts to recreate the look and feel of the old days. Substantial weights and vintage patterns are part of the appeal. One other overcoat option really impressed me : a fabric with a polyamide membrane on the back, making about a tenth of its composition. That addition makes the fabric waterproof and windproof, which is perfect for the harsher climate I am used to. I only described a few options, frankly, the number of fabrics and possibilities were quite overwhelming.
An innovation recently added to the Drapers offerings is the Italian made goose down : thindown. The NIPI (Natural Insulation Products Inc). patented fabric It is the finest natural insulator known, naturally found beneath the plumage of geese that keeps them warm and dry. It is produced as a by-product of the food industry in a sustainable way and is 4 times warmer than polyester. That fiber was used in sportswear and performance clothing successfully for a few years, but never in tailoring. If sewed under the lining, that fiber provides both warmth and wind blocking. That technique allows the use of a summer fabric during winter, effectively insulating the fabric without adding much extra weight. A sport coat showcasing that technique was available touch and feel in the show room. With that addition, the possibilities are truly endless.
The Bolognese experience
The club then proceeded to the antique trattoria across the street for lunch with Luca. It is actually an Italian business tradition to treat your guests with a good meal, an important etiquette for both the guest and the host. The longer the meal, the more important the guests are. Luca was most gracious : the members could experience the typical Bolognese food in a 3 hour long meal that was as delicious as it was impressive. The 5 courses were all Bolognese specialties : Beef tartare with parmesan cream, tortellini in broth, the famous tagliatelle bolognese, boiled meats and crema fritta. Every single dish was excellent, it was like having the whole Bolognese food experience in a single meal.
After that fulfilling lunch, we headed back to the Drapers showroom to purchase some fabric, for which Drapers graciously offered a discount, an exclusivity for the club members visiting that day. Nonetheless, it was an exercise requiring great restraint, as one could easily want to buy everything. After all, what better souvenir from Italy that a fabric later used to make a unique piece, perhaps to be worn at Pitti Uomo the following year.
After watching our purchased fabric being cut, prepared and packaged, we headed for the city’s historic center for a stroll. The sheer beauty of Bologna is breathtaking. The city is well known for its churches, towers and porticoes. Porticoes are arches covering the side of the streets, protecting pedestrians from the elements. They cover 38 km in the historical center and up to 53 km of the city. Porticoes are considered an important part of the cultural heritage of Bologna, as well as being under the UNESCO historical site protection. Club members enjoyed the city for some shopping, coffee and sightseeing before heading back to Florence.
Visiting Bologna and Drapers filled the first day of the eighth sartorial club field trip. The opportunity to discover the fabric merchant, the bolognese cuisine and city were amazing and will be remembered forever. That was just the beginning of the field trip, the next pieces will cover our adventures back in Florence.
