Written by Andy Poupart

My name is Andy. Together with my wife, Michèle, we post to Instagram as @styleafter50 (and @mrsstyleafter50). We’ve been members of The Sartorial Club since the very beginning. We visited Como on a TSC field trip a couple of years ago and we thought that this field trip to Thomas Mason, in Bergamo, would be another fun and interesting excursion.

The train from Florence to Milan is a superb, high speed service, quite unlike anything we have in the States. Milan Centrale is a station with which we are quite familiar, so it was not difficult to find our connection to Bergamo. Once we arrived in Bergamo, we were met by a private bus that took us to our hotel to drop our bags and then on to the Thomas Mason facility, located a short distance outside the town, to begin our tour.

The Heritage of Thomas Mason

Thomas Mason was established in 1796, making it one of the oldest textile brands in the world. The company has deep roots in the tradition of fine shirting, reflecting an enduring commitment to excellence that spans over two centuries. Founded in Lancashire, England, the brand specialized in producing high-quality cotton fabrics, leveraging the region's burgeoning textile industry.

Over the years, Thomas Mason has evolved but has never strayed from its core principles. The brand is recognized for its pioneering spirit, introducing innovations in fabric production that set industry standards. A dedication to craftsmanship is a thread that spans across the entire history of the company, culminating today in products that reveal a meticulous attention to detail and a passion for quality. The legacy of Thomas Mason is not just about producing fabric; it’s about upholding a tradition that honors the artistry of textile creation.

The Journey to Bergamo

In 1992, Thomas Mason name and archive was acquired by the Albini Group, a distinguished Italian textile manufacturer known for its commitment to quality and sustainability. This acquisition marked a significant shift, as Thomas Mason transitioned from its English roots to a new chapter in Italy. The decision to relocate operations to Bergamo was strategic, rooted in the region's long-standing reputation for textile production and craftsmanship.

Bergamo, located in the Lombardy region of northern Italy, is renowned for its rich textile heritage, with a history of producing some of the finest fabrics in the world. The city boasts skilled artisans and a thriving textile industry, making it an ideal home for a brand that values quality and craftsmanship. The move allowed Thomas Mason to tap into the expertise of Italian artisans while maintaining its commitment to the quality that has defined the brand for over two centuries. Indeed, the company has a number of employees representing multiple generations of the same family. Expertise is respected and treasured here.

Sourcing the Finest

Prior to touring the factory, we were treated to a short presentation introducing the company and the world of Thomas Mason. We learned that the quality of the company’s fabrics is unparalleled, characterized by the finest materials and impeccable craftsmanship. The company sources its cotton from the best growers around the world, ensuring that each fiber meets the highest standards. The company uses three types of premium, long-staple cotton: Supima cotton from the Southwestern United States, Egyptian cotton from the Nile, and the fabled Sea Island cotton from Barbados and Jamaica.

The collection ranges from classic to contemporary designs, appealing to a diverse clientele. Whether it’s a crisp white shirt for formal occasions or a casual patterned fabric for relaxed wear, Thomas Mason offers a variety of choices that cater to every taste. The feel of the fabric is remarkable; it is soft yet durable, lightweight yet substantial. This perfect balance is a hallmark of Thomas Mason’s commitment to quality.

Inside the Weaving Mill

Drawn on the factory floor, we were able to observe the entire process of producing fine cotton shirting. From the dying of the threads, including a careful attention to color fidelity, to the intricate process of loading threads into the warping machine, transferring the warp threads to a loom where the weft threads are down through the warp to create the patterns of the cloth. The more complex the pattern, the longer it takes to weave. Some patterns, we were told, are produced at a rate of only 20 meters or so per day!

One of the standout features of Thomas Mason fabrics is their innovative finishing processes. The brand employs cutting-edge techniques that enhance the fabric's performance, making it wrinkle-resistant and breathable. This dedication to functionality without sacrificing aesthetics is what sets Thomas Mason apart in the competitive world of fashion textiles. As I ran my fingers over the luxurious textures, I could appreciate the thought and expertise that went into every weave.

Freshly woven, the fabric is now ready for the last stage of production

A Textile Time Capsule

After touring the factory floor and learning about the cloth production process, we were invited into the Thomas Mason archive room. Each year, going back to the very beginnings of the company, books containing examples of cloth qualities and patterns were created. These books represent in a very tangible way, the long history of the company. The company today uses these archive pattern books as a source of inspiration for current products.

Indeed, one of the most surprising aspects of the archive is just how vibrant and, in some cases, modern the swatches in these books were. I looked at books from 1850 to about 1890 and found patterns and, especially, colors that looked as though they could have been woven yesterday. Seeing these colors made me reconsider my image of Victorian people. After all, Thomas Mason would not have made cloth in such deep reds, vibrant yellows, and more, if there were not customers to buy them. And the company would not have bothered to archive them, either.

The Charm of Bergamo

The setting of Bergamo adds an extra layer of charm to the Thomas Mason experience. Known for its stunning medieval architecture and picturesque landscapes, Bergamo is divided into two distinct parts: the Città Alta (Upper City) and the Città Bassa (Lower City). The Upper City is a fortified hilltop town, rich in history with cobblestone streets and breathtaking views of the surrounding region. In contrast, the Lower City is bustling with modern life, featuring shops, cafes, and vibrant street scenes.

The juxtaposition of old and new in Bergamo mirrors the philosophy of Thomas Mason. While the brand is steeped in tradition, it continually seeks to innovate and adapt to contemporary needs. The serene ambiance of the city provides a perfect backdrop for the craftsmanship that takes place within the Thomas Mason walls. The surrounding landscape, characterized by rolling hills and lush greenery, creates an inspiring environment that fosters creativity and passion for quality.

During my visit, I took a moment to explore the local area. The historical architecture, such as the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore and the Colleoni Chapel, speaks volumes of Bergamo's artistic heritage. It’s a city that celebrates both its past and its present, much like Thomas Mason’s dedication to heritage and quality.

As I left the facility, I carried with me not just an appreciation for the exquisite fabrics but also a deeper understanding of the dedication that goes into creating them. The visit reinforced the idea that true luxury lies in the details—the soft touch of a well-crafted shirt, the intricate patterns that tell a story, and the commitment to sustainability and innovation.

Bergamo, with its breathtaking scenery and rich history, serves as an ideal setting for a brand like Thomas Mason, where tradition meets modernity. In every thread woven, one can sense the passion and commitment to quality that have defined this iconic brand for over two hundred years. It’s a reminder that some things—like the fabric of life—are best appreciated when crafted with care and dedication.

Exploring Città Alta with Sam

The next episode has more about the TSC field trip to Bergamo. Our good friend and fellow member, Sam, describes our tour of Bergamo the day after our visit to Thomas Mason. Discover the strategic importance of medieval Bergamo to the Republic of Venice, why the old town is surrounded by thirty-meter thick walls, and much more.

(4) Threads of Time